Now that I've been in Chile for a few weeks and have visited numerous cities and stayed with several families, I have a few observations and comments on Chilean culture to share.
But first... some geographical fun facts! Chile is only 265 miles across at its widest point, but from north to south, Chile is 2800 miles long! Do you think that's fantastic?! Get this: Chile has over 4000 miles of coast line!! This is mainly due to Chile's islands like Chiloe and Easter island, as well as numerous inlets and bays). Because Chile is so long, it has a varied climate with world's driest desert in the north (the Atacama) to the rainy temperate climate in the south and down to the Antarctic region in the extreme south.
The great thing about this long coastline in Chile is that the ocean is always to the west, which means that you can see phenomenal sunsets over the water every evening! Even with all of the coastline though, many Chileans do not know how to swim! I've asked several Chileans why, and they say something to the effect of when you have so much of something you tend to take it for granted.
In fact, many Chileans do not know how to drive either. Because of this, there are two forms of identification in Chile: a driver's license and a personal ID card for those who do not drive. The extreme majority of Chileans travel by bus, which is an effective, reliable, and very accessible system. There are tons of bus companies, and I've ridden on nearly every type of bus offered, from the big double decker sleeper buses for overnight rides, to the single-level coaches (both nice buses and trashy buses, and some with a bathroom and some without), and down to the tiny microbuses that don't have designated stops (you jump on and off from the side of the road and pay accordingly).
While I've taken direct buses from Santiago to Puerto Varas and back, some bus routes I've taken are more "local" (read: sketchier) than others. For example, the coach bus from Panguipulli to Conaripe (on the way to visit Byron in Villarica) was completely along a gravel road, and the bus driver would stop in the middle of climbing a gravel hill to let passengers on and off! The bus from Valdivia to Huilo Huilo was painfully slow as the bus stopped every two minutes to pick up and drop off passengers (it did this for six hours)...
Because travel by bus is so common in Chile, no one is polite. Other passengers bump into you, kick your chair, push and shove, stand in the aisles, shove past you, etc. with no apologies. Oh and do they stare! It's almost always the men too, and they have no shame in getting caught staring at you. Nevertheless, all bus travel has been very affordable, costing anywhere from a dollar for a microbus to 24 dollars for an overnighter. All of the buses have conductors that collect the tickets or money, even the microbuses.
All of the Chilean cities I have seen have a similar appearance and feel. The cities are all very colorful with brightly colored buildings and rooftops, as well as colorful and artistic graffiti covering the sides of buildings and bridges. Some cities have way more graffiti than others, like the sprawling Santiago and the busy port of Valparaiso. However, even the youthful city of Valdivia and the quiet and remote town of Los Muermos have graffiti. Also, there is no animal control in Chile, so there are stray dogs everywhere! Santiago and Valparaiso are the leaders in this category, but Pucon comes in third because the stray dogs there are so big! When I asked the locals what they thought about the dogs, they said that the dogs are happy because they are free. I think the dogs look sad because they have no one to take care of them...
It has been interesting staying with Bailey's friends, as it has really given me a more local experience and an insiders look into Chilean life and culture. Chilean life is very family-centered, and almost every one of Bailey's friends live with their parents and siblings at home, even the ones who are 26 or 27 years old. They move out of the house when they get married. Chilean homes are very small compared to those in the States, but they are cozy, comfortable, and simple, not at all extravagant nor is there any wasted space. The houses all have stoves to keep the main living rooms warm, and there are several thick wool blankets on the beds to stay warm during the night. There are water heaters that have to be lit before showering, doing the dishes, etc. All the water heaters I've seen are gas, but some are lit with a spark and others with a match. It's hard remembering to ask to have to hot water turned on if you want to shower.
Chileans are tiny little people, especially the men. I feel more like a giant here than I did in China! I have to keep reminding myself that I am an average height for the US . Chileans are also quite reserved and timid, especially when you first meet them. It takes some work, but once they open up to you, they are extremely friendly, kind, generous, and hospitable. They've got great personalities too and love to laugh and joke! To greet each other and to say goodbye, whether it be a close friend or a stranger, they kiss each other on the cheek. At first this was uncomfortable for me when I was first introduced to people, but now I'm used to it. Even though I like how personal and close the Chileans are with each other, I still prefer shaking hands.
Chileans LOVE soccer. They are obsessed with it, and it is always on TV. The two most popular teams in Chile are La U and Colo Colo. The fans for these teams are hardcore and are raised to be fans by their parents from the moment they are born. Also, nearly every Chilean I've met smokes, and they smoke indoors. Ah it kills me to be sitting next to someone when they light up, or having to go to sleep in the same room where everyone was smoking.
I like that Chile has their own music and dance culture. When I was in Asia and Australia, the only music I ever heard out at bars or clubs and on the radio was the same music they play in the US. In Chile, it's rare to hear any American music (in fact, I'm really beginning to miss American music). Chileans listen to a lot of salsa music, reggae, and reggaeton, and they LOVE to dance to it! Put on a rap song and they get all confused, but put on a some salsa music and you've got the best dancers that I have ever danced with! I like dancing with Chileans so much because they actually know what they're doing- they grew up learning how to dance and how to lead their partners. I haven't gotten bored with a dance partner here yet, which is so different from the some of the monotony of dancing in the States.
The food is terribly disproportionately priced between restaurants and the grocery store. Restaurants can get expensive very quickly, with a simple salad costing $12 and an entree costing $15, while grocery stores and liquor are super cheap! It's 3 to 4 dollars for good bottle of wine, 4 dollars for a liter of Pisco, and I typically buy fruit, yogurt, and granola bars at the grocery store and only spend about 4 dollars!
Wow, have I eaten some great food while in Chile too! Some of the traditional dishes that I've tried are cazuela de ave (a stew with vegetables, chicken, and potatoes), pastel de choclo (kind of like a shepards pie with meat and corn), pastel de papa (meat and potatoes), sopapillas (deep-fried bread), empanadas (meat or veggies folded in dough and either fried or cooked in an oven), chorillana (a Valparaiso specialty of french fries, onions, eggs, and meat), and a completo (a hotdog with avocado, ketchup, and mayo). And wow do they know how to cook meat! An asado is what they call their BBQ's, and I've had incredibly good meat during late night asados at Cliffs, Huilo Huilo, and Negra's house in Puerto Varas. It's meat that is covered in salt, pepper, and spices, cooks slowly over coals, and literally melts in your mouth! To drink, it's Piscola and Pisco Sours all the way!
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