Today was our last day in Santiago. For lunch, Bailey and I met up with my friend and sorority sister Elise, who has traveled to Santiago for three weeks for her work. It was really neat to see her in Santiago and share our experiences! I'm looking forward to sharing pictures when we're both back in the States.
I am currently on the plane on the way home. There were plenty of open seats, so Bailey and I got to sit together for our final leg of the trip! I'm sad to be leaving Chile. To my surprise, I connected very well with Bailey's friends and was sad to say goodbye to them. I now understand how difficult it was for Bailey to leave after spending four months with them and why she was so excited to return to Chile after less than a year. I'm glad that I was able to come with her back to Chile, and I hope that some of her friends are able to come visit us in the States!
Looking back at this trip, it was so different than any trip I have taken. First of all, I am happy that this was the most budget travel I have done and the most local immersion I have gotten (since we stayed at Bailey's friend's houses and at their work sites). I think this trip compares most with my study abroad in China with the language barrier and the everyday challenge of communication and getting from point A to B, but it is still a very different trip from China...
How can I best put it into words? Looking back at my blog entries... in Egypt I wrote about what I learned, in Australia and New Zealand I wrote about what I did, and in Chile I wrote about how I felt (and I know that God was with me every step of the way). So, I can conclude that this trip in Chile was more about finding out who I am in challenging situations, how I cope with obstacles, and how quickly (or slowly) I adapt to new situations. What a great experience!
I'm so thankful to have been able to go to Chile with Bailey and to leave with great memories and great friends. The landscapes and the scenery in Chile are stunning, but the people and the culture are just as beautiful :)
I'm a bit worried about going home. I think my biggest worry is falling back in to the comforts of life in the US, because in reality, I don't need any of those things. I feel like I'm going to walk into my house and feel that it is too big and walk into my room and feel like I have way too many clothes. I'm worried about all of the English that I will have to speak and how easy it is to do so. It's been great (and humbling) living out of a backpack for the last four months and facing the everyday challenge of life in Chile, and I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. I want to try to hang on to the simplicity of backpacking- the fact that it's okay to be dirty and to wear the same shirt three days in a row, to walk everywhere and to spend the entire day and night outside. I feel like I'm two people sometimes- one who has a blast living in the heart of the city and then one who is perfectly at peace being in solitude in the middle of the wilderness. How can I balance (and satisfy) these two cravings in my life moving forward?
But I do know that right now, I am at peace. Going home has of them rang reminded me of why I travel: to learn and grow, to challenge myself, stretch my limits, and foster an appreciation of both the world at large and the city I call my home :)
For my records, here's the final schedule of the trip:
Mar 15-18, Santiago, stayed with Carlos and family
Mar 19, Puerto Varas to Cliffs in Northern Patagonia
Mar 19-22, Cliffs, stayed in La Ruca
Mar 22-24, Huilo Huilo, stayed with Alberto's chef friends
Mar 25, Villarrica, stayed with Byron and family
Mar 26-27, Pucon with Byron, whitewater rafting and Huerquehue National Park
Mar 28-30, Valdivia, stayed at Giselle's
Mar 30-Apr 1, Cliffs, stayed in La Ruca
Apr 2-4, Puerto Varas and Yan Kee Way, stayed at Negra's and JP's
Apr 5-7, Santiago, stayed with Carlos and family
Monday, April 11, 2011
Santiago For The Win!
Bailey and I said our farewells to Negra at Puerto Varas and took an overnight bus to Santiago. When Bailey and I arrived in Santiago, we checked our big backpacks at the bus station and jumped on a bus to Algorrobo, a town on the coast 2 hours east of Santiago. Algorrobo is home to the world's largest swimming pool!!
The pool is one kilometer long, covers 20 acres, is 115 ft deep at its deepest point, and holds 66 million gallons of water! I really want to go and swim down and back in the pool. It's a salt water pool right next to the ocean that uses a computer-controlled suction and filtration system to draw in ocean water from one side and pump it out on the other side. The pool is so big that you can kayak and sail on it!
It has been a goal of mine to swim in the pool, and I was really looking forward to the trip. I had been trying unsuccessfully to get information about the pool online. The pool is part of an exclusive resort called San Alfonso del Mar, and the limited information I could find mentioned having to rent an apartment or condo for the night in order to use the pool. I wanted to call and see if acquiring a day pass was possible, but I could not find a phone number online for the resort (I searched for days).
So Bailey and I took on the challenge of hunting down the pool and trying to get a look and hopefully a swim. We arrived in Algorrobo, driving along the coast and watching the turquoise ocean water pound against the yellow sand and black rocks against a clear blue sky with bright warm sunshine. A perfect day for a 2 km swim!
However, Algorrobo was deserted... literally. There was hardly a soul in sight. The beaches were empty, the restaurants along the shore closed. When we arrived at San Alfonso del Mar resort, the parking lots were empty and the pool empty... empty of people though, not water! So we got passed the gate and tracked down a lady at reception, who promptly (and rudely) told us that the pool was closed for cleaning for the next five days, and besides, we have to rent an apartment to be able to use the pool (but we had to wait five days anyway). So...no swimming in the pool. I asked for a business card and phone number and told them that their website was not functioning or we would've just called instead of showing up in person. Jerks.
So... big bummer about the pool, but Bailey and I made the most of the trip by hanging out on the beach and strolling through the city before jumping on the bus back to Santiago where Carlos greeted us with some piscolas :) I'll tell ya, Chileans solve all problems with Pisco ;)
The next day Bailey and I went to Cerro San Cristobal, which is a big hill in the middle of Santiago. It's a strenuous hike to the top, so instead we chose to take the ascensor to the top. At the top is an outdoor church and altar, with a statue of Mary at the very top, arms stretched over Santiago. It was a neat experience to be up on the mountain overlooking Santiago (the smog was terribly thick though, and you couldn't see a lot the city, much less the Andes Mountains surrounding it). We ended the trip by buying some postcards and tacky tourist souvenirs at Bellavista, eating ice cream, and having lunch at an outdoor cafe. Yay for a touristy day!
We met up with Carlos when he got off work that afternoon and, together with his brother Christopher, we drove to the Concha Y Toro vineyard for a wine tour! Concha Y Toro is the largest wine exporter in Chile. We toured the vineyard, sampled some grapes right off the vine (they were really sweet!), and walked through the warehouse where the barrels of wine are stored for years! Seeing the temperature-controlled warehouse was by far my favorite part. I love being an IE! We even got to go down into the underground cellar to see where the famous Castillero del Diablo wine is stored during its fermenting process. We sampled some of the wine, and my favorite was the white wine called Trio which is a blend of three different grapes. We got to keep our wine glasses, and I bought a bottle of Late Harvest dessert wine. On our way back to Carlos's house, we had our last empanadas of the trip for dinner.
Friday, April 8, 2011
Yan Kee Way
Bailey and I left Cliffs and went Puerto Varas to stay with Negra, another chef from Cliffs. We had an AMAZING asado of at her house- sausage, ribs, poco de gallo salsa, and wine! Ah it was delicious!
My Spanish understanding is way better than when I first arrived in Chile. I am to the point where I no longer realize that Spanish is being spoken; it feels like everyday talking. My speech is still slow, but I've been told many times that my accent is good when I speak. There was one point when I was talking with Bailey and Negra that I didn't even realize our conversation was in Spanish, it just felt natural and normal. I have a feeling when I go home I will still be thinking in Spanish. I can't believe I'm to this point after only three weeks. No wonder Bailey's Spanish (or should I say, Chilean) is so good after her four months of working here!
Bailey, Negra, and I took a microbus in the morning to Yan Kee Way to visit Bailey's friend JP (Juan Pablo). JP was a receptionist at Cliffs when Bailey worked there and now he is a receptionist and waiter at Yan Kee Way, which is a hotel and resort on the shores of Lake Llanquihue in the shadow of Volcan Osorno. The resort is owned by an American who gave it its name because Lake Llanquihue is sounds like "Yankee Way". It's kind of tacky...
Nevertheless, we had a beautiful view of Volcan Osorno all day. We ate an awesome lunch in the lodge at Yan Kee Way, cooked by Negra's chef friend Juan, of strip steak and spinach-stuffed tomatoes with a brownie and ice cream dessert. I love that Bailey has chef friends who have chef friends! I've really enjoyed seeing the behind-the-scenes of the tourist industry during this trip. Since Bailey worked in guest relations at Cliffs last year, some of the people she worked with are now working at other resorts for this season. Since Bailey wants to visit all of them, we've been fortunate to stay at some beautiful, and otherwise exclusive, places!
In the afternoon while JP was working, Negra took Bailey and I on a hike to a waterfall at Petrohue River. It was a gorgeous place- beautiful aquamarine water against black volcanic rock with Volcan Osorno in the background. Purely picturesque. We spent the evening with JP and Negra, drinking wine and piscolas on the porch, watching the sunset change the colors of the snowcap on Volcan Osorno, and salsa dancing!
My Spanish understanding is way better than when I first arrived in Chile. I am to the point where I no longer realize that Spanish is being spoken; it feels like everyday talking. My speech is still slow, but I've been told many times that my accent is good when I speak. There was one point when I was talking with Bailey and Negra that I didn't even realize our conversation was in Spanish, it just felt natural and normal. I have a feeling when I go home I will still be thinking in Spanish. I can't believe I'm to this point after only three weeks. No wonder Bailey's Spanish (or should I say, Chilean) is so good after her four months of working here!
Bailey, Negra, and I took a microbus in the morning to Yan Kee Way to visit Bailey's friend JP (Juan Pablo). JP was a receptionist at Cliffs when Bailey worked there and now he is a receptionist and waiter at Yan Kee Way, which is a hotel and resort on the shores of Lake Llanquihue in the shadow of Volcan Osorno. The resort is owned by an American who gave it its name because Lake Llanquihue is sounds like "Yankee Way". It's kind of tacky...
Nevertheless, we had a beautiful view of Volcan Osorno all day. We ate an awesome lunch in the lodge at Yan Kee Way, cooked by Negra's chef friend Juan, of strip steak and spinach-stuffed tomatoes with a brownie and ice cream dessert. I love that Bailey has chef friends who have chef friends! I've really enjoyed seeing the behind-the-scenes of the tourist industry during this trip. Since Bailey worked in guest relations at Cliffs last year, some of the people she worked with are now working at other resorts for this season. Since Bailey wants to visit all of them, we've been fortunate to stay at some beautiful, and otherwise exclusive, places!
In the afternoon while JP was working, Negra took Bailey and I on a hike to a waterfall at Petrohue River. It was a gorgeous place- beautiful aquamarine water against black volcanic rock with Volcan Osorno in the background. Purely picturesque. We spent the evening with JP and Negra, drinking wine and piscolas on the porch, watching the sunset change the colors of the snowcap on Volcan Osorno, and salsa dancing!
Parga, Otra Vez!
Bailey and I have returned to Cliffs in Northern Patagonia, also known as Parga! We are hoping for better weather and to see some of Bailey's friends who were taking their free days during our first visit. It was well worth the return trip!
During out first night back, we hung out in the kitchen during dinner time at the lodge. I loved watching the chefs Negra and Miguel cooking in the kitchen! It operated like a well-oiled machine, or controlled chaos as Bailey likes to say. I was fascinated by the roles that each of the chefs played- preparing the ingredients, cooking the food, and putting the final decorative touches on the plates for the waiters to deliver to the dining room. Literally fascinated with this process! Miguel had some leftover risotto that he let us try, ahhhhh was it yummy!
Later that night, the Cliffs staff had an asado and party for Enzo's birthday and Filipe's going away. Enzo is a baker (bread and desserts), and Filipe was a guide who went with us on the crazy Olivido trail during our first visit. Earlier in the day, Bailey and I had gone shopping with Poncho for all of the meat, beer, Pisco, and Coca-Cola for the party. Soooo basically there was a lot of eating, drinking, dancing, and all around good times. The Chileans are such good dancers :) Yay for salsa and cueca!
The next day we had better weather. It was a bit overcast, but low wind and not too cold. I made the hike again to Playa Ortiga, but this time along the beach instead of over the torn down trees. The weather was clearer, so I got so great pictures! Later in the day we hung out with Esteban in the muebleria, which is the wood shop where he makes stools, chairs, boxes, tables, mancala boards, etc. Esteban is a funny old man with crazy Einstein hair and missing teeth. He is very patient and loves teaching us about Chilean words and culture. Bailey said that she spent a lot of time hanging out with Esteban in his muebleria; he was a great teacher for her. Esteban served us coffee and gave us bookmarks that he had made, regalitos! That night we watched Cliffs play a soccer game against a local church. Cliffs won 3-2, and we had an asado afterward with the visiting team.
Our final full day at Cliffs started out rainy in the morning, but cleared up to perfection in the afternoon! Bailey and I did a small workout in the gym in the casino and visited a villa with Paola. It was cool to see the inside- I loved the sea creature themes and the decorations. After lunch, the rain cleared and we had blue sky! The air was warmer too! It was exactly what we had been praying/waiting for!
Since the weather was warm and the waves were smaller (still big for me, but not as menacing as earlier), Bailey and I went sea kayaking! Bailey and I shared a double kayak, and Arturo came with us, also on a double but by himself. Charlie was going to come, but he had an allergic reaction in his eye, so he just slept on the beach haha. Arturo and Charlie are both hilarious! Charlie washes dishes in the steward and wore sunglasses all day and night because of his eye, we started calling him the Terminator. Arturo is 23 and works as a lugero and also in the Cliffs kitchen. They call him Lobo del Mar, a sea lion!
I sea kayaked on Moreton Island, outside of Brisbane in Australia, but it was not like kayaking at Cliffs. The biggest difference was that there were no waves at Moreton Island, but there were big waves we had to get past at Cliffs. I was kinda nervous, but I trusted Bailey, the pro kayaker!she was the steerer, and was the power for the beginning. Haha I felt like i was going to bounce out of the kayak over the waves, but we made it to calm water on the first try without flipping, and boy was I glad we had our wetsuits on and that the sun was warm! I was impressed that Arturo made it out by himself on the big double boat.
It's hard to describe that perfection of our day kayaking... It was enjoyable and relaxing and thrilling and beautiful and entertaining all at the same time. We paddled over perfect turquoise water through floating seaweed and sea foam to the circle of rocks at the left of Playa Dos. The waves churning like a cauldron inside the circle, but we managed to get close to some of the towering rocks. We were able to see caves and archways in the rocks that I had no idea were there! We saw two sea lions napping on the rocks, and hundreds of birds circled around us as we paddled. It was lovely :)
As we paddled in the bright sun across to another set of rocks, we saw a group of four dolphins about 20 meters away! It was incredible! We watching them play and jump in the waves while we were kayaking, it was so beautiful! W also saw a little baby sea lion on another rock and watched him yawn and dive into the ocean. We then set up to paddle back into the beach, trying to time the waves correctly so one doesn't scoop you up from behind and dump you over. Haha we had a wave lift up the kayak from the back, but the front got pinned in the sand. We hung on and rode out the wave to the shore. Woooo crazy!
In the evening, Bailey and I went to the kitchen at the lodge to hang out and watch Miguel cook. It was so fun!! Miguel let us try a shrimp in a white wine and cilantro sauce, then he made a whole venison steak for us! Yuuuuum I want chef friends back home! I also got a whole piece of blueberry cheesecake and bites of a chocolate raspberry torte! Aaaaah heaven! Drake opened us a bottle of smooth white wine for us, and Lucho made us a pisco sour with ginger and honey. Haha things started getting crazy in the kitchen- Alberto and Freddie came in to share in the wine, Charlie was washing dishes with his sunglasses on, and Lucho lost the top to the tea, finding it later INSIDE the pot! So fun, so buzzed, lots of laughs!
Thanks to the clear day and low wind, we also had a clear sky at night! Ahhh finally! The nearest town is two hours away, and Cliffs is right on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, so the heavens were literally laid out above us in perfect, minute detail! The stars were so close it felt like you could almost touch them. The sky was so clear and the night so dark that you could even see the stars low on the horizon and through the trees. It was a wonder, the universe on display above us at a hands reach. We wandered onto Playa Dos and watched the stars, seeing two shooting stars and the Milky Way with the Southern Cross right in the middle on the thick band of stars. I had my iPad with me and used it to look up some of the constellations, since it's probably the last time I'll be in the southern hemisphere for a while. It was absolutely wonderful :)
Chilean Culture and Lifestyle
Now that I've been in Chile for a few weeks and have visited numerous cities and stayed with several families, I have a few observations and comments on Chilean culture to share.
But first... some geographical fun facts! Chile is only 265 miles across at its widest point, but from north to south, Chile is 2800 miles long! Do you think that's fantastic?! Get this: Chile has over 4000 miles of coast line!! This is mainly due to Chile's islands like Chiloe and Easter island, as well as numerous inlets and bays). Because Chile is so long, it has a varied climate with world's driest desert in the north (the Atacama) to the rainy temperate climate in the south and down to the Antarctic region in the extreme south.
The great thing about this long coastline in Chile is that the ocean is always to the west, which means that you can see phenomenal sunsets over the water every evening! Even with all of the coastline though, many Chileans do not know how to swim! I've asked several Chileans why, and they say something to the effect of when you have so much of something you tend to take it for granted.
In fact, many Chileans do not know how to drive either. Because of this, there are two forms of identification in Chile: a driver's license and a personal ID card for those who do not drive. The extreme majority of Chileans travel by bus, which is an effective, reliable, and very accessible system. There are tons of bus companies, and I've ridden on nearly every type of bus offered, from the big double decker sleeper buses for overnight rides, to the single-level coaches (both nice buses and trashy buses, and some with a bathroom and some without), and down to the tiny microbuses that don't have designated stops (you jump on and off from the side of the road and pay accordingly).
While I've taken direct buses from Santiago to Puerto Varas and back, some bus routes I've taken are more "local" (read: sketchier) than others. For example, the coach bus from Panguipulli to Conaripe (on the way to visit Byron in Villarica) was completely along a gravel road, and the bus driver would stop in the middle of climbing a gravel hill to let passengers on and off! The bus from Valdivia to Huilo Huilo was painfully slow as the bus stopped every two minutes to pick up and drop off passengers (it did this for six hours)...
Because travel by bus is so common in Chile, no one is polite. Other passengers bump into you, kick your chair, push and shove, stand in the aisles, shove past you, etc. with no apologies. Oh and do they stare! It's almost always the men too, and they have no shame in getting caught staring at you. Nevertheless, all bus travel has been very affordable, costing anywhere from a dollar for a microbus to 24 dollars for an overnighter. All of the buses have conductors that collect the tickets or money, even the microbuses.
All of the Chilean cities I have seen have a similar appearance and feel. The cities are all very colorful with brightly colored buildings and rooftops, as well as colorful and artistic graffiti covering the sides of buildings and bridges. Some cities have way more graffiti than others, like the sprawling Santiago and the busy port of Valparaiso. However, even the youthful city of Valdivia and the quiet and remote town of Los Muermos have graffiti. Also, there is no animal control in Chile, so there are stray dogs everywhere! Santiago and Valparaiso are the leaders in this category, but Pucon comes in third because the stray dogs there are so big! When I asked the locals what they thought about the dogs, they said that the dogs are happy because they are free. I think the dogs look sad because they have no one to take care of them...
It has been interesting staying with Bailey's friends, as it has really given me a more local experience and an insiders look into Chilean life and culture. Chilean life is very family-centered, and almost every one of Bailey's friends live with their parents and siblings at home, even the ones who are 26 or 27 years old. They move out of the house when they get married. Chilean homes are very small compared to those in the States, but they are cozy, comfortable, and simple, not at all extravagant nor is there any wasted space. The houses all have stoves to keep the main living rooms warm, and there are several thick wool blankets on the beds to stay warm during the night. There are water heaters that have to be lit before showering, doing the dishes, etc. All the water heaters I've seen are gas, but some are lit with a spark and others with a match. It's hard remembering to ask to have to hot water turned on if you want to shower.
Chileans are tiny little people, especially the men. I feel more like a giant here than I did in China! I have to keep reminding myself that I am an average height for the US . Chileans are also quite reserved and timid, especially when you first meet them. It takes some work, but once they open up to you, they are extremely friendly, kind, generous, and hospitable. They've got great personalities too and love to laugh and joke! To greet each other and to say goodbye, whether it be a close friend or a stranger, they kiss each other on the cheek. At first this was uncomfortable for me when I was first introduced to people, but now I'm used to it. Even though I like how personal and close the Chileans are with each other, I still prefer shaking hands.
Chileans LOVE soccer. They are obsessed with it, and it is always on TV. The two most popular teams in Chile are La U and Colo Colo. The fans for these teams are hardcore and are raised to be fans by their parents from the moment they are born. Also, nearly every Chilean I've met smokes, and they smoke indoors. Ah it kills me to be sitting next to someone when they light up, or having to go to sleep in the same room where everyone was smoking.
I like that Chile has their own music and dance culture. When I was in Asia and Australia, the only music I ever heard out at bars or clubs and on the radio was the same music they play in the US. In Chile, it's rare to hear any American music (in fact, I'm really beginning to miss American music). Chileans listen to a lot of salsa music, reggae, and reggaeton, and they LOVE to dance to it! Put on a rap song and they get all confused, but put on a some salsa music and you've got the best dancers that I have ever danced with! I like dancing with Chileans so much because they actually know what they're doing- they grew up learning how to dance and how to lead their partners. I haven't gotten bored with a dance partner here yet, which is so different from the some of the monotony of dancing in the States.
The food is terribly disproportionately priced between restaurants and the grocery store. Restaurants can get expensive very quickly, with a simple salad costing $12 and an entree costing $15, while grocery stores and liquor are super cheap! It's 3 to 4 dollars for good bottle of wine, 4 dollars for a liter of Pisco, and I typically buy fruit, yogurt, and granola bars at the grocery store and only spend about 4 dollars!
Wow, have I eaten some great food while in Chile too! Some of the traditional dishes that I've tried are cazuela de ave (a stew with vegetables, chicken, and potatoes), pastel de choclo (kind of like a shepards pie with meat and corn), pastel de papa (meat and potatoes), sopapillas (deep-fried bread), empanadas (meat or veggies folded in dough and either fried or cooked in an oven), chorillana (a Valparaiso specialty of french fries, onions, eggs, and meat), and a completo (a hotdog with avocado, ketchup, and mayo). And wow do they know how to cook meat! An asado is what they call their BBQ's, and I've had incredibly good meat during late night asados at Cliffs, Huilo Huilo, and Negra's house in Puerto Varas. It's meat that is covered in salt, pepper, and spices, cooks slowly over coals, and literally melts in your mouth! To drink, it's Piscola and Pisco Sours all the way!
But first... some geographical fun facts! Chile is only 265 miles across at its widest point, but from north to south, Chile is 2800 miles long! Do you think that's fantastic?! Get this: Chile has over 4000 miles of coast line!! This is mainly due to Chile's islands like Chiloe and Easter island, as well as numerous inlets and bays). Because Chile is so long, it has a varied climate with world's driest desert in the north (the Atacama) to the rainy temperate climate in the south and down to the Antarctic region in the extreme south.
The great thing about this long coastline in Chile is that the ocean is always to the west, which means that you can see phenomenal sunsets over the water every evening! Even with all of the coastline though, many Chileans do not know how to swim! I've asked several Chileans why, and they say something to the effect of when you have so much of something you tend to take it for granted.
In fact, many Chileans do not know how to drive either. Because of this, there are two forms of identification in Chile: a driver's license and a personal ID card for those who do not drive. The extreme majority of Chileans travel by bus, which is an effective, reliable, and very accessible system. There are tons of bus companies, and I've ridden on nearly every type of bus offered, from the big double decker sleeper buses for overnight rides, to the single-level coaches (both nice buses and trashy buses, and some with a bathroom and some without), and down to the tiny microbuses that don't have designated stops (you jump on and off from the side of the road and pay accordingly).
While I've taken direct buses from Santiago to Puerto Varas and back, some bus routes I've taken are more "local" (read: sketchier) than others. For example, the coach bus from Panguipulli to Conaripe (on the way to visit Byron in Villarica) was completely along a gravel road, and the bus driver would stop in the middle of climbing a gravel hill to let passengers on and off! The bus from Valdivia to Huilo Huilo was painfully slow as the bus stopped every two minutes to pick up and drop off passengers (it did this for six hours)...
Because travel by bus is so common in Chile, no one is polite. Other passengers bump into you, kick your chair, push and shove, stand in the aisles, shove past you, etc. with no apologies. Oh and do they stare! It's almost always the men too, and they have no shame in getting caught staring at you. Nevertheless, all bus travel has been very affordable, costing anywhere from a dollar for a microbus to 24 dollars for an overnighter. All of the buses have conductors that collect the tickets or money, even the microbuses.
All of the Chilean cities I have seen have a similar appearance and feel. The cities are all very colorful with brightly colored buildings and rooftops, as well as colorful and artistic graffiti covering the sides of buildings and bridges. Some cities have way more graffiti than others, like the sprawling Santiago and the busy port of Valparaiso. However, even the youthful city of Valdivia and the quiet and remote town of Los Muermos have graffiti. Also, there is no animal control in Chile, so there are stray dogs everywhere! Santiago and Valparaiso are the leaders in this category, but Pucon comes in third because the stray dogs there are so big! When I asked the locals what they thought about the dogs, they said that the dogs are happy because they are free. I think the dogs look sad because they have no one to take care of them...
It has been interesting staying with Bailey's friends, as it has really given me a more local experience and an insiders look into Chilean life and culture. Chilean life is very family-centered, and almost every one of Bailey's friends live with their parents and siblings at home, even the ones who are 26 or 27 years old. They move out of the house when they get married. Chilean homes are very small compared to those in the States, but they are cozy, comfortable, and simple, not at all extravagant nor is there any wasted space. The houses all have stoves to keep the main living rooms warm, and there are several thick wool blankets on the beds to stay warm during the night. There are water heaters that have to be lit before showering, doing the dishes, etc. All the water heaters I've seen are gas, but some are lit with a spark and others with a match. It's hard remembering to ask to have to hot water turned on if you want to shower.
Chileans are tiny little people, especially the men. I feel more like a giant here than I did in China! I have to keep reminding myself that I am an average height for the US . Chileans are also quite reserved and timid, especially when you first meet them. It takes some work, but once they open up to you, they are extremely friendly, kind, generous, and hospitable. They've got great personalities too and love to laugh and joke! To greet each other and to say goodbye, whether it be a close friend or a stranger, they kiss each other on the cheek. At first this was uncomfortable for me when I was first introduced to people, but now I'm used to it. Even though I like how personal and close the Chileans are with each other, I still prefer shaking hands.
Chileans LOVE soccer. They are obsessed with it, and it is always on TV. The two most popular teams in Chile are La U and Colo Colo. The fans for these teams are hardcore and are raised to be fans by their parents from the moment they are born. Also, nearly every Chilean I've met smokes, and they smoke indoors. Ah it kills me to be sitting next to someone when they light up, or having to go to sleep in the same room where everyone was smoking.
I like that Chile has their own music and dance culture. When I was in Asia and Australia, the only music I ever heard out at bars or clubs and on the radio was the same music they play in the US. In Chile, it's rare to hear any American music (in fact, I'm really beginning to miss American music). Chileans listen to a lot of salsa music, reggae, and reggaeton, and they LOVE to dance to it! Put on a rap song and they get all confused, but put on a some salsa music and you've got the best dancers that I have ever danced with! I like dancing with Chileans so much because they actually know what they're doing- they grew up learning how to dance and how to lead their partners. I haven't gotten bored with a dance partner here yet, which is so different from the some of the monotony of dancing in the States.
The food is terribly disproportionately priced between restaurants and the grocery store. Restaurants can get expensive very quickly, with a simple salad costing $12 and an entree costing $15, while grocery stores and liquor are super cheap! It's 3 to 4 dollars for good bottle of wine, 4 dollars for a liter of Pisco, and I typically buy fruit, yogurt, and granola bars at the grocery store and only spend about 4 dollars!
Wow, have I eaten some great food while in Chile too! Some of the traditional dishes that I've tried are cazuela de ave (a stew with vegetables, chicken, and potatoes), pastel de choclo (kind of like a shepards pie with meat and corn), pastel de papa (meat and potatoes), sopapillas (deep-fried bread), empanadas (meat or veggies folded in dough and either fried or cooked in an oven), chorillana (a Valparaiso specialty of french fries, onions, eggs, and meat), and a completo (a hotdog with avocado, ketchup, and mayo). And wow do they know how to cook meat! An asado is what they call their BBQ's, and I've had incredibly good meat during late night asados at Cliffs, Huilo Huilo, and Negra's house in Puerto Varas. It's meat that is covered in salt, pepper, and spices, cooks slowly over coals, and literally melts in your mouth! To drink, it's Piscola and Pisco Sours all the way!
Valdivia
My Spanish is getting better! Now I am understanding and following more of conversations than before. I've been meeting a lot of Bailey's friends and families who only speak Spanish, and I have been able to speak with them well! I still get nervous sometimes and speak slowly, but I am beginning to have more and more fun meeting Bailey's friends and their friends and families.
In fact, I have some nicknames now. Alberto (El Mono) has begun calling me La Soldada (The Soldier) because he thinks I am strong and independent. I'm kind of touched by this and like his nickname for me. When I meet Bailey's friends for the first time, many of them comment that I look like either Anne Hathaway or Kiera Knightly. I think it's just that I have brown eyes and smile big, but I am flattered all the same. Her friends also call me chistosa, which means silly or funny, and Felipe at Cliffs gave me the nickname Curly Sue during the one night that I wore my hair down on this entire trip. Good times!
After leaving Pucon, Bailey and I spent a couple nights in Valdivia to hang out with Marsela, Giselle, and Ricky, who are three of Bailey's friends from a cliffs who worked as interns in the kitchen when Bailey worked there last year. It was sunny and warmer in Valdivia while we were there, which is rare in this city. Valdivia is one of the rainiest cities in Chile! We took advantage of the sunny weather by walking along the river and through the fish market. The sidewalk along the river had a huge crack down the middle that had been filled in. Bailey explained that this crack was caused during the earthquake last year.
The Valdivia river is also home to sea lions! These sea lions are huge! They lay out on the docks right next to the sidewalk. You could literally walk up to them and touch them if you like, but nobody does because they are smelly and mean. It was really neat being so close to these wild animals though!
Bailey and I visited Ricky in the chocolate shop and bakery that he is now working in. Ricky specializes in cakes, especially cheesecakes! Yuuuuumm! Bailey and I then went with Marsela to lunch and then walking around the University and Botanical Gardens in Valdivia. The Botanical Gardens are right on the university's campus- wouldn't it be neat if Tech had some botanical gardens to stroll through during the day?
Bailey, Ricky, Marsela, and I all stayed at Giselle's cabin for the night. Giselle lives a bit outside of the Valdivia city center near Niebla and Playa Los Molinos. Giselle and Marsela made pastel de papa to eat that night- it was a heavenly dish of meat, onions, and cheesy potatoes!
In fact, I have some nicknames now. Alberto (El Mono) has begun calling me La Soldada (The Soldier) because he thinks I am strong and independent. I'm kind of touched by this and like his nickname for me. When I meet Bailey's friends for the first time, many of them comment that I look like either Anne Hathaway or Kiera Knightly. I think it's just that I have brown eyes and smile big, but I am flattered all the same. Her friends also call me chistosa, which means silly or funny, and Felipe at Cliffs gave me the nickname Curly Sue during the one night that I wore my hair down on this entire trip. Good times!
After leaving Pucon, Bailey and I spent a couple nights in Valdivia to hang out with Marsela, Giselle, and Ricky, who are three of Bailey's friends from a cliffs who worked as interns in the kitchen when Bailey worked there last year. It was sunny and warmer in Valdivia while we were there, which is rare in this city. Valdivia is one of the rainiest cities in Chile! We took advantage of the sunny weather by walking along the river and through the fish market. The sidewalk along the river had a huge crack down the middle that had been filled in. Bailey explained that this crack was caused during the earthquake last year.
The Valdivia river is also home to sea lions! These sea lions are huge! They lay out on the docks right next to the sidewalk. You could literally walk up to them and touch them if you like, but nobody does because they are smelly and mean. It was really neat being so close to these wild animals though!
Bailey and I visited Ricky in the chocolate shop and bakery that he is now working in. Ricky specializes in cakes, especially cheesecakes! Yuuuuumm! Bailey and I then went with Marsela to lunch and then walking around the University and Botanical Gardens in Valdivia. The Botanical Gardens are right on the university's campus- wouldn't it be neat if Tech had some botanical gardens to stroll through during the day?
Bailey, Ricky, Marsela, and I all stayed at Giselle's cabin for the night. Giselle lives a bit outside of the Valdivia city center near Niebla and Playa Los Molinos. Giselle and Marsela made pastel de papa to eat that night- it was a heavenly dish of meat, onions, and cheesy potatoes!
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